The Beer Is Great at Faultline Brewery, But the Food's Even Better Inventive chef is a major asset of Sunnyvale pub. Faultline Brewing Company in Sunnyvale serves an impressive variety of inventive dishes uniquely suited to pairing with beer, and chef Michael Wilson, an alumnus of the kitchen at the popular Los Gatos Brewing Co., trolls international waters for his menu. Although the range of ingredients and flavors in his dishes might challenge a wine sommelier, the food readily compliments Brewmaster Greg Friday's changing selection of half a dozen or so ales (a large costs $3.25, and a less than large costs ($2.25.) Among the chef's multiethnic explorations was a grilled lamb sirloin generously crusted with ground, toasted coriander and cumin seed ($16.95). The Near Eastern flavor of the aromatic lamb married beautifully with spiced bulgar wheat, sweetened with golden raisins, and a cucumber yogurt sauce that tasted like Greek tzatziki. The Mediterranean touch was also evident in a special of grilled veal T-bone ($18.95), presented on a bed of cannellini beans braised with plum tomatoes, white wine and garlic and studded with dices summer squash. The thick chop, prepared medium-rare, as recommended by the waitperson, was adorned with a dollop of compound butter hat incorporated a generous swirl of foie gras. Such keen attention to detail was evident in several dishes. The sweet onion jasmine rice that accompanied another special, grilled Hawaiian ahi ($17.95), tasted perfectly delicious, with its subtle hints of East Asian spicing. The addition of crunchy millet demonstrated a degree of meticulousness one does not expect of a Brewpub kitchen. An appetizer of tempura ahi rolls ($7.95) was garnished with bright orange tobikko (flying fish roe) and presented on a pool of sweet red pepper essence. the combination of crisp English cucumber, rich avocado and creamy Japanese rice, wrapped around a thick vein of raw tuna, then wrapped in nori, dipped in tempura batter and flash-fried, was an inventive treat of crisp succulent textural contrasts. The grilled applewood-smoked pork loin ($15.95) was superb, a generous chunk of absolutely lean, juicy meat. Wilson flavored the pork overnight in a marinade that included fresh apples, pears, red onions and black pepper, perfumed it in the restaurant's smoker, and gave it a bronze crust on the grill. Not one to neglect the accessories, he paired the smoky loin with a sensational sweet pepper marmalade and a large, omespun square of very good potato, eggplant and zucchini gratin. The roasted maple leaf duck ($16.95) was almost laudable, with rosy medallions of breast meat arranged beside a leg portion that stayed in the oven until it was harmoniously well done. However, the shorter cooking time kept a significant layer of fat from leaching out from under the honey-glazed skin of the boneless breast. The side dish of apples, caramelized in brown butter and then braised with red cabbage, with a wild huckleberry sauce with green peppercorns, provided a sweet-and-sour counterpoint to the rich duck - a sophisticated combination of German-style beer cuisine flavors. With so many components on each plate, one inevitably notices one or two shortcomings. Yes, the duck could have used more salt, and crisp potato pancakes would have better suited the dish than grilled polenta. Ant the roasted fennel and eggplant served with the lamb was coated with too astringent a balsamic vinegar. But overall, the kitchen's performance was impressive. Wilson modestly describes his efforts at Faultline as "trying to match good match god food with great beer." Brewmaster Friday holds his own with a intriguing unfiltered wheat ale (Hefe Weizen) that yields remarkable hints of banana and clove. The crisp Kolsch transports you to Germany, and the Golden, the brewer's lightest ale, has more character than many full-bodied imports. So it's not the brewmaster's fault if Faultline's beers may draw less attention than its food. Nevertheless, on busy nights (Friday in particular) the after-work Silicon Valley crowd tightly packs the outdoor patio and the large space in front of the bar. the resulting din can make conversation in the adjoining dining area a real challenge. Corrugated sheet metal wall coverings and industrial-looking partition panels give the interior an austere, sleek look. Exposed ventilation ductwork, de rigueur is mos contemporary brewpubs, is painted bright silver here, while a profusion of heavy wooden beams (vestiges of the Rusty Scupper restaurant, the previous tenant) provides a rustic counterpoint. A zigzagging wall of floor-to-ceiling windows at the back of the restaurant looks out onto a pond that Faultline shares with the adjacent Sunnyvale Hilton. Filled with ducks and a couple of majestic swans, the tranquil scene immeasurably softness the surroundings. There have been concerns expressed about the quality of service in the dining room, but the waitstaff on two recent visits proved to be prompt, helpful and amicable. White linen-covered tablecloths enhanced the feeling of a fine dining experience. Food this could makes you almost forget that this is a brewery, too! Rating Pluses: An inventive menu offering great food carefully prepared and attractively presented. Great attention paid to the detail of each item on your plate. Outstanding pork loin, memorable specials and very good beers and ales. Minuses: On busy nights, a noisy din that spreads from the bar area throughout the dining room.
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