True Brew

Silicon Valley’s microbrew scene from the bottoms up.
By Traci Vogel

Beer, some scientists think, did in fact lead directly to civilization. Here’s the theory: Nomadic man accidentally discovered that wild barley grains fermented when wet. Drinking this fermented mush made Mr. Nomad happy. After a few pints of happy, Mr. Nomad decided that it sure would be nice to settle down, get a field and raise a crop of barley. Voila, modern agriculture was born.

Somewhere in there, the idea of beer as a civilizing influence got lost, at least in America. Beer became the drink that accompanied sports, and it didn’t taste so great. A few decades ago, a small group of beer artisans set out to change the taste equation. As a result of their efforts, home brewing became a popular use for bathtubs, and small brewers started springing up like so much foam. Pairing beer with food, in the same way that wine is paired, is becoming a popular pastime. Finally, beer is getting the respect it deserves!

“Beer has for so long been associated as a blue collar drink and not a sophisticated drink,” says David Mathis, regional brewmaster for BJ’s Brew House. “It’s perception. Wine and beer should be on 100% equal footing. Both are creating different flavors. Each one is creating an impression. Each one is bringing improved value to your meal, to your life.”

Thanks to this belief, internationally-award-winning beers pour throughout Silicon Valley. Here’s where to find them.

 
Faultline Brewing Company
1235 Oakmead Pkwy., Sunnyvale (408) 736-2739 www.faultlinebrewing.com

Flagship Labels: Hefeweizen, pale ale, bitter, stout, IPA

Specialty Beers: Pilsner (switches over to kolsch in April), Scottish-style 10-year Anniversary Ale, golden ale

Brewmaster: Peter Catizone

How did you get interested in brewing beer?
I started with home brewing. I was working as a bartender and basically started working part-time as an assistant brewer [at Boulder Creek Brewing Company]. Then the brewers there left, got their own place, and I got to take over.

What makes for a great beer?
Anybody can make a beer that’s really intense – extremely hoppy, really strong, dark – but to make a beer that’s outstanding, it has to have a balance. To me it should be something that you can drink a few of and not get tired of the taste. There’s an art to the balance, really. You could spend your whole life just trying to make the best pale ale in the world. A great beer just has a magical balance of ingredients.

Do you remember the very first beer you drank?
I think my dad was drinking Miller back then. I grew up in New Jersey and the drinking age was only 18 back then, and he let me drink beer every once in a while when I was 15 or 16, like when we were on a fishing trip. At first, I wasn’t too crazy about it, but then little by little, I enjoyed the taste of beer.

 



 
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